Time to get out of the comfort zone.
For years I have had a set and clear view toward hiking in grizzly country, ”Just don’t do it!”
That apparently is just silly, because my good friend and long distance hiker, Why Not and I are heading out this week to hike 600 miles on Canada’s Great Divide Trail in the heart of grizzly country.
What I have learned over the last year is never say never. Lately I have managed to face many things I have said no to my entire life.
What is The Great Divide Trail?
From the Great Divide Trail Association website:
The Great Divide Trail (GDT) is a wilderness hiking trail in the Canadian Rockies. The GDT closely follows the continental divide between Alberta and British Columbia, crossing the divide no fewer than 30 times. It begins in Waterton Lakes National Park at the Canada-US border (where it connects with the Continental Divide Trail) and ends 1,130 kilometres to the north in Kakwa Provincial Park.
The GDT is not always officially signed and the route is actually made up of several separate trail systems joined together by ATV tracks, roads, rail corridors and wilderness routes. The GDT passes through five National Parks, eight Provincial Parks, three Wildland Provincial Parks, two wilderness areas and two special management areas, with 60 percent of the trail located in the Rocky Mountain National and Provincial Parks.
Outside of the Parks, the GDT varies from being a well developed, blazed trail to an unmarked, cross-country wilderness route where navigation skills are required and few or no backcountry facilities exist (e.g. campgrounds, outhouses). Most of the GDT is quite remote and cell phone reception is almost non-existent.
A journey on the GDT promises to be rewarding but not without a few challenges: hiking conditions are often strenuous and potentially hazardous, difficult mountain navigation, glacial stream crossings, deceptively short hiking season, harsh weather including potential summer snowstorms, grizzly bears, mosquitoes, and remote trail exit points for resupply or potential emergency access. It may sound daunting, but on the GDT you’ll discover a definitive wilderness experience in one of the most magnificent settings on Earth: diverse vegetation, towering snow-capped peaks, iridescent glacial waters, abundant wildlife and panoramic vistas at every turn!
So…basically the GDT is wild, remote, beyond stunning, has grizzlies, will have inclement weather, and is the trip of a lifetime!
Trip Planning and Resources
Getting ready to hike this trail is no easy task. Because of Canada’s current system in the National Parks, hikers must make reservations ahead of time for campsites and town stays. Not only can the reservations be full, but it is a nightmare to predict the exact day you will arrive at the reserved destinations.
I have to thank Why Not for spending hours of frustration, reading advice from other hikers, and phone and computer time putting our trip together.
Just getting to the trailhead is a feat. We are super lucky that hikers Leslie Gerein and Keith Brodsky that just happen to live in Banff, will be picking us up at the Calgary Airport and shuttling us to the trailhead. Leslie is even going to hike in with us for a couple of days.
The GDTA website is a wealth of information and contains a plethora of trip planning resources and advice from past hikers. Thank you everyone who contributed. The following are the main resources we used, but we also received advice and support from many others. Thank you.
- Great Divide Trail Association
- Great Divide Trail Hikers Facebook page
- Into Cascadia
- Ryan Silk’s Maps
- Guthook’s Guide to the GDT App
Route
Food
I am leaving my stove behind on this trip and cold soaking my food. This is to reduce food odors that might attract bears. I am hoping the food I dehydrated and assembled will be delicious and nourishing. It just won’t be hot.
Gear
I tried. I really tried to get my base weight down, but the GDT requires gear that I normally do not haul in the summertime. I did Ieave many little things behind like a pillow and my powerful headlamp to compensate for the added rain and bear protection. Here is the end result.
Great Divide Gear List 2018
| Category | Item | Wt. | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Backpack | Gossamer Gear Gorilla | 23 | Lightweight, supportive, comfortable |
| Air Flow Pad as Gorilla Back Panel | Light and adds air flow | ||
| Shelter | ZPacks Solplex Tent | 15 | Light, durable & stormproof |
| MSR Tent Stakes | 2 | Tough, good in sand & wind | |
| Sleeping | Zpacks 5 degree/standard width/ medium length | 24 | Warm & comfortable, buy one size longer than your height |
| NeoAir XTherm | 15 | Extra weight but worth it for winter & high elevations | |
| Kitchen/Food Storage | Bamboo Spoon | .5 | Long handle perfect for Ziploc bags, smooth in the mouth |
| Ziploc Twist N Loc Small | .5 | Mix powdered drinks & soak food bowl | |
| Ursack S29.3 & rope | 8 | ||
| O.P. Sak (Odor Proof) | 2 | Love the 12 X 20 size | |
| Hydration | Sawyer PointOne Filter | 3 | This year I am screwing the filter on a Smart Water bottle |
| First-aid/Hygiene | First-aid kit | 3 | |
| Tolietries | 10 | ||
| Potty bag | 3.5 | ||
| Lavender, peppermint, melaleuca | .5 | Must have multi-use first aid | |
| Swiss Army Classic | 1 | Twizzers actually work | |
| Duece of Spades trowel | .5 | Dig a hole fast, works | |
| Clothes in Pack | GORE-TEX Minimalist Jacket | 12 | Very waterproof with no extra features |
| GORE-Tex Minimalist Pants | 9 | Very waterproof, fit great | |
| Zpacks Vertice Rain Mitts | 1 | ||
| Patagonia Houdini Wind Jacket | 3.5 | Mid-layer & wind jacket | |
| PossumDown Gloves | 1 | Lightweight & warm | |
| MH Ghost Whisperer | 7 | Warm, very light, hood takes the place of beanie | |
| Capilene Lightweight Zip Shirt | 4.5 | Sleep shirt & extra layer | |
| Light Trail Tights | 3.5 | Sleep tights & extra layer | |
| Injinji Sport Mini Crew Toesocks | 1.5 | No toe blisters | |
| PossumDown Socks | 1.5 | Sleep socks | |
| Patagonia Active Hipster | 1 | Dries quickly, fit great | |
| Misc. | Garmin InReach Mini Sat Communicator | 3.5 | NEW for me! |
| Bear Spray | 8 | Bear protection | |
| Petzl e+LIte Headlamp | 2.5 | Lightweight | |
| Maps w/data pages in ziploc | 3 | ||
| Compact Sit Foam Pad | 1 | Just enough padding | |
| Sony a6000 Camera | 7 | Wide angle, easy to use, takes amazing photos | |
| iPhone 7plus | 5 | Navigation, blogging, video, phone | |
| Otter Commuter Case | 1 | Durable & slim | |
| Mini Tripod | 1 | Small, lightweight | |
| Anker PowerCore Slim 10000 | 4.8 | 3 or more full charges | |
| Anker Lightning Cable 1 ft. | .5 | ||
| Sea to Summit Bug Net | .5 | ||
| Eye Mask | .5 | Seriously changed my sleep on moonlit nights | |
| Unshoe Feather Sandal | 4.5 | Minimalist camp shoe | |
| Weight Summary | BASEWEIGHT (oz) | 199.8 | |
| w/o food & water | BASEWEIGHT (lbs) | 12.4 | |
| Items Worn | Marmot Plaid Shirt | ||
| Anika Convertible Pant | Durable, fit great, offered in lengths | ||
| Dirty Girl Gaiters | Great rock & sand protection | ||
| OR Sun Gloves | Easy to get on & off, SPF | ||
| La Sportiva Bushido Shoes | Buy at least a size up, love them in all conditions | ||
| Spenco Insoles | My favorite...I have tried many. | ||
| Injinji Sport Mini Crew Toesocks | No toe blisters | ||
| Buff Scarf | Sun scarf, headband, beanie | ||
| Trucker Hat | |||
| Sports Bra | |||
| Patagonia Active Hipster | Favorite for years | ||
| Smith Sunglasses | |||
| Fizan Compact Trekking Poles | Compact, ultra-lightweight, durable |
Awesome! Looking forward to following.
May I ask how you carry your camera? I recently got a mirrorless camera – but am still struggling on figuring out how to carry it when hiking. It doesn’t fit in a hip belt pocket. Having it hang from a strap around my neck seems like it would get in my way. I bought a neoprene cover for it, that I can clip onto my shoulder strap, but it bounces against my chest when I walk. I’m still learning to use it, but it definitely takes better photos than my phone.
I hope you have a wonderful adventure in Canada!
When will you be passing through Egypt Lakes and Ball Pass Junction? I’ll be staying there August 29 & 30! I’m hiking south from the BC/Alberta pass on Hwy 93, heading to Egypt Lakes. It’d be crazy to meet you there! (And I was disappointed to not be able to hike at Waterton, due to everything closed from last year’s fire.)(Also disappointed that half of the Assiniboine trails are closed due to last year’s fire.)
Kurt in Colorado
Can’t wait to read and see your posts from this trip! Please be careful but enjoy the great outdoors!!
What an awesome trip! I’m looking forward to your posts.
Wishing you a summer filled with outdoor activities. ?
As always, I’m super stoked to be along. My annual trip is less than a month away and can’t wait for it. So, your blog will carry me through until August 3rd! Congratulations on facing your fears; I’ve had to do that in parts of my life so very recently, and well, I’m still here and making it. I know you two will as well. Go!Rockin’!Go!
Great to have you along on yet another trek. You have got to be so excited and busy. Taking these longer international trips requires so much prep time and worrying about the little details. It sometimes can get just plain old crazy. Wishing you a fantastic trip. Whooohooo
So glad your pushing ahead with this trip,I try to never say no to something new that can be life changing.I can’t wait to see the post. Bart
That….or it could be a huge mistake. Ya just never know, that is why we surge forward and take the risk. Best to you!
So glad you are surging forward. There is something empowering about plunging in. Fear gets weaker and weaker!
I too don’t tell you often enough what a fantastic, encouraging blog you give us. Stellar photography the frosting on the words ?
Thank you for all the gear and background info too.
Good thoughts will accompany you and Why Not.
Jill, Thank you for all this. This really helps. Sometimes when I am blogging at night in my tent, I feel like just going to sleep and bagging the whole blogging thing, but then I remember comments like this and a shift happens. Happy summer to you.
I went from Banff to Jasper last summer and it was hands down the most incredible trip ever, even without much back country action. You are going to have a blast! Can’t wait to follow along!
Thanks Ian! I have heard so many great comments about the beauty on the Great Divide. Congrats on your trip!
“On the Trail again” Am excited to follow you two on what sounds like an amazing journey. Will be praying for your safety and for a stupendous time. You go girls
Thanks Lucy. We start tomorrow!
I’ve been following your hiking adventures for about 5 years (or more…or less) with great interest. I’ve been so impressed with you and your hiking adventures. Years ago we drove from Seattle to Yoho, then Banff and Jasper. What a trip. What beautiful mountains. It was a car camping trip with day hikes. I know you are going to have a wonderful time hiking through such beauty. I look forward to your posts.
Johnathan, First off thank you for commenting. I love to hear from readers that have been tuning in for awhile but have not chimed in. Great road trip and what memories made. Thank you for following along. ?
When we were there we were very nervous about bears. I know you have much more experience than I do and I’m sure you’ve done your homework. We were scrupulous about making sure that there were no food smells in our sleeping area.
Yep. We are changing a lot of our habits…no eating in camp, no cooking, hanging our food with OPsak and Ursack, carrying bear spray and unscented toiletries. ?
The Canadian Rockies are so beautiful. We’ve been there twice but not hiking! This sounds like a great trip with many challenges. I’m sure you two will meet all the challenges. Praying for you two for safety from weather and animals. Be careful. How long do you anticipate it taking you?
I am looking forward to all of it. Glad to have you along again. Thank you for your prayers. It should take us about 40 days with taking some days off to rest…sometime in the middle of August we should be done.
It’s gonna be great! Can’t wait to “follow” on this one!
???
Ya…I will be thinking of you often on this one!
Oh my goodness, trip of a lifetime indeed! My first thought was how are you ever going to top this? And now I’m seriously glad you got the InReach. ? Best wishes for an amazing trip, and selfishly looking forward to your posts, though it looks like those are going to be a challenge, too. Wowee, you two are freaking amazing!
PS. In the continuing spirit of being inspired by women like you, since my 55th birthday on June 24 I’ve kayaked and SUP’d for the first time, signed up for a white water rafting trip and Intro to Scuba, and set my next two camping trips. Warning to others: This blog is dangerous! Bwahahaha ?
Marijka, I want to do all of those things. Man girl you are moving! Seriously. Congrats on all you are doing. Getting out there and workin’ it. Thanks for your ongoing comments and fun support.
Oh, double the fun! Nancy and you, too!!! Look forward to following you both!
It should be a fun trek and even better with a great friend. Thanks for following along.
What an amazing adventure.
Good news is the bears will be in berry mode.
A friend told me a plains indian told him the people used to keep skunks for their scent (mercaptain).
They put the scent on their children to keep the grizzlies (formerly a plains animal) away from the kids.
So a skunk is a good sign.
Oh I like that all of this! Thanks for the encouragement and fun facts. Skunks…I will look for them.
Hi, The gluten, dairy and nightshade free meal plan – may I ask about that? Is that specific to your backpacks? I am trying to have that kind of diet because of psoriasis but it’s hard, particularly since I grew up eating salsa! I suppose it would be easier to make that happen on a backpack when you have to preselect your food (for other reasons too) and you’re stuck with it.
This sounds like a great trip! I’ve skied in Banff and I swore that the Canadian Rockies are incredible. Do you all back across the US border?
Hello Andrew,
I eat that way every day because of food sensitivities and I just feel better and have good energy. Eating healthy on trail just plain old makes for a great trip. So it makes sense. Hard to do though.
We are flying into Calgary, then shuttling to the beginning of our hike. Thanks for the questions. 🙂 I am excited to experience the Canadian Rockies first hand.