“First, wrap my head around it, then think of the possibilities to overcome the challenges.” -Kerry Gray, hiker
Kings Canyon High Basin Route Overview
A couple of years ago, I completed Sections 1 & 2 of @andrewskurka Kings Canyon High Basin Route in the California High Sierra from Twin Lakes to Kearsarge Pass Trailheads. The diverse and rugged route trampled over 50 miles of mostly off-trail crossing the range from west to east, went up 7 passes, over many saddles, across countless boulder fields and traversed granite slabs and grassy ramps with a couple of snow cornices. It was such a great route and I have recommended this trip to many experienced hikers. This route is remote, stark, and breathtaking and we did not see a single human. I absolutely loved it and highly recommend these sections.
Kerry Gray joined me on this route. She was relatively new to hiking multi-day cross-country and climbing up and down class 3 rock. We both learned a lot and I really admire her grit, willingness to hang in there, and determination to finish strong. Our itinerary for this trip was a conservative pace (under 10 miles each day). A more average pace would be planning for around 10 miles per day. Toward the end of our trek we experienced high winds and bitter cold. Luckily, we were out before snow hit the Sierras.
The guidebook Andrew created features beautiful maps, detailed data books, and written route descriptions. It is designed with many options for accessing the route, hiking in different directions, hiking it in sections, or as a thru-hike. As with all of Andrew’s guidebooks, they are detailed but leave room for adventure. It really is a “choose your own adventure”.
Note: This route is hardcore! Don’t attempt it unless you have significant cross-country backpacking experience, map and compass skills, and are in great hiking shape.
Route Details
- TRIP DATE September 12-17, 2019
- DISTANCE Approximately 50 miles
- ELEVATION 17,537 feet elevation gain, 15,080 feet elevation loss
- ELEVATION RANGE Lowest 6,748 – Highest 12,436 feet
- TRAILHEAD Shuttle – Begin on west side of the Sierras at Lodgepole Campground (Twin Lakes Trailhead), then finish on the east side of the Sierras at Onion Valley Trailhead
- DIFFICULTY Strenuous with some established trail and mostly off-trail with a bit of class 2/3 climbing
- NAVIGATION Printed Skurka map set critical, map and compass skills critical, GPS track helpful
- BEST TIME TO HIKE Late summer due to lingering snow on passes and high stream crossings
- WATER Abundant natural water sources
- PERMITS Online Permit at Recreation.gov
- CELL SERVICE No service except on top of Kearsarge Pass
Guidebook, Maps & GPS
- Andrew Skurka Guidebook – Purchase and download online
- Andrew Skurka’s Kings Canyon High Basin Route Overview
- Map set printed on 11 X 17 paper (highly recommended) from Andrew’s guide – I use Fed Ex online printing service.
- Sequoia & Kings Canyon Overview Map
- GPS track I created on Cal Topo before the trip.
Click blue “Open in “CalTopo” in upper right hand corner of map to view and download GPX.
Video
Route Description
Day 1: Lodgepole Campground to Tarn Below Mount Silliman
September 12
4.4 miles
Ranger John and Clare, my father and mother in-laws generously drove Kerry and I from Tehachapi to the beginning terminus at Lodgepole Campground in Sequoia National Park. It is not a quick or easy drive.
The first few miles followed the Twin Lakes trail, and then we cut up Silliman Creek following an easy use trail and smooth granite slabs to Silliman Lake. We ended our first day after climbing more than 3,000 feet near a splendid little tarn.
Day 2: Tarn Below Mount Silliman to Below Lonely Lake
September 13
7.2 miles
The day started with our first pass that looked daunting at first, but ended up being a really fun class 2 climb.
The next six miles took us across the Kings-Kaweah Divide and a magical part of the Sierras called Tablelands. It was nice hiking and with excellent views.
Leaving Tablelands but continuing to follow the Kings-Kaweah Divide, we crossed Pterodactyl Pass and continued easy hiking over slabs and through meadows to end at a lovely campsite below Lonely Lake.
Day 3: Below Lonely Lake to Colby Pass Trail
September 14
6.7 miles
Climbing up the granite ledges to Horn Col while the sun was rising was well…stunning and inspiring. There are big pay offs to hard work and getting up early.
After Horn Col, an easy granite slab traverse continued as we aimed for Copper Mine Peak, a landmark that is critical to navigate across the correct ridge to access Copper Mine Pass. Copper Mine Pass is on the other side of Copper Mine Peak. You reach the pass after gaining the correct ridge and following a use trail around the back. There was a fair bit of snow that we circumnavigated to access the ridge. Once on top, the old trail to the pass was clear and easy to follow.
The descent down Copper Mine Pass was brutal, loose, steep, and exposed. We lost the faint use trail quickly as we descended into Cloud Canyon. I had a love, hate relationship with this canyon. Just as soon as it was amazingly beautiful and easy walking, it would drop into fields of large sometimes loose boulders.
As soon as we found the river at the canyon bottom and the Colby Pass Trail, we made camp shortly after the intersection. We were pretty tired, hungry and a tad cranky. We took turns giving ourselves pep talks as we set up camp. 🙂
Day 4: Colby Pass Trail to North of Thunder Ridge Pass
September 15
5.3 miles
Our personalities returned in the morning and the trail up to our next destination, the Great Western Divide was steep with cool cloud formations and lighting. After leaving the trail behind we climbed up a bowl and crossed an easy pass above Talus Lake. The next goal was identifying and crossing Thunder Ridge Pass. It is not clear because there is an easier pass toward the south (not the correct pass). Up and up we went over endless fields of granite boulders.
At the top of Thunder Ridge Pass, looking down is pretty discouraging with a view of a very long mile and a half of talus! We found a great ledge to camp after descending most of the nightmare. This was my favorite camp of the trip. The Sierras put on an outstanding show of color.
Day 5: North of Thunder Ridge Pass to East Lake
September 16
6.31 miles
After contouring around a large ridge to reach Cunningham Creek, the weather turned cold and windy.
As we climbed up to the Great Western Divide at Longley Pass, the weather further deteriorated with gusty winds and dropping temperatures. We quickly donned every layer of clothing in our packs. At the pass, things got a little dicey. One, the main route was covered in snow and the incoming weather made it urgent to get off the pass. I scouted out a nice little class 3 notch down the north side of the snow cornice. It was a sweet little route and after descending off the pass the weather improved.
The descent from Longley Pass to and around Lake Reflection was not straight forward and we navigated up and around cliffs and through bushes. It was tough, slow hiking. The day ended just in time to enjoy a lovely camp and sunset by the shores of East Lake.
Day 6: East Lake to Onion Valley Trailhead
September 17
12.56 miles
Our hike out on the John Muir and Kearsarge Pass trails was uneventful and gave me time to reflect back on my summer and plan possible upcoming trips. From East Lake to Bubbs Creek ford (the water level here would be high and swift in early season) was pleasant and easy going and the Bubbs Creek ford was just a quick walk across.
Kerry and I had planned on hitching a ride from the Onion Valley Trailhead to Independence, then taking public transportation home to Tehachapi. After checking in with my husband via my Garmin Mini, he offered to come pick us up. SCORE. We had fun retelling stories from our trip on the way home. I really appreciated the opportunity to work with a new partner. She really was a trooper on a pretty tough route. Again, I really recommend sections 1 and 2 of the KCHBR if you have previous experience navigating with map and compass and are comfortable traveling cross-country over rough, rocky terrain with a loaded backpack.
Recommended Gear
- Bear Can – Bearikade Scout
- Trekking Poles – Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork
- Shoes – La Sportiva TX3
- I carry a Garmin Mini Satellite Communicator and highly recommend it.
- It is important to get your backpacking kit as light as possible for safety, comfort, and your health. Here is my lightweight gear list and My Personal All-Time Favorite Hiking Gear
Photo
- View all photos from the trip on Flickr
Happy Adventuring!
Just incredible. I’ll have to do this once I have a touch more experience with off-trail trips.
Christy,
So good to see you back on your new speedier website. I’ve missed following you here and am not the best at using the other site you post on.
This is an amazing post and such a wealth of knowledge. Really fun following along (way beyond my skillset) and as always love your photography.
WARREN, Ya Instagram kinda took over. It was quick but not long lasting or searchable information for future use. It is super helpful to be reminded. Thank you so much for your continued support. Hope you are well.
Hey Rockin’! Great to see you back in action.
As usual, you and your pals prove what I already know: Chicks rule!
I’m headed for West Highland Way in Scotland in a few weeks — Covid willin’ & the creeks don’t rise..
OH I love Scotland. That will be an amazing trip. Still waiting for a copy of your new book in the mail…….
Hi Christy!
A super “read” and the most stunning photos. That first photo is a real “prize-winner” As usual you turn it on and make one feel that life is worth living and getting out in mountains! I envy you . Perhaps at only a max of 10 m a day I could even do it! When I win the lottery I’ll come over and ask you to take me ! Now that would be some trip! I long for fantastic mountain scenery and no scrub. I have never become used to Australian bushwalking as hiking over here is called. My best days were in my 20’s rock climbing and mountaineering in South Africa’s Drakensberg Mountains – stunning scenery, no scrub, beautiful mountain streams everywhere and generally good weather. Hope you are smiling!!!
This looks intense but absolutely amazing!
You are right! We just took our time through the sketchy patches and took 1 step at a time. A burley trip.
Rockin’, your trip here blew me away! Absolutely beautiful photos and what a place! Wonderful inspiration just before bed :). I’ll be dreaming dreams of beautiful granite slabs and clear blue-green water tonight.
Well then…this trip report is a success. It is always a good thing when our minds drift to wilderness. I loved these sections. This was an older trip that I put partially together 2 years ago and never posted. I have at least 20 other posts that need the same attention! Thank you for your kind comment.