I said, “Yes!” 

Milissa (aka Mary Poppins) asked me to tag along on one of her adventures, The Wonderland Trail, during her 3 month potpourri hiking extravaganza. This trail was not on the top of my list due to the difficulty to obtain permits, lots of deep forest hiking, and required camps along the way. Boy was I pleasantly surprised over and over again during our few days together.

The Wonderland Trail is about 95 miles long and circles Mount Rainier. It is a strenuous hike with LOTS of elevation gain and loss EVERY DAY! It passes through lowland forests and valleys and into high alpine and sub-alpine areas. Wonderland’s high Point is Panhandle Gap, elevation 6,780′ and low point at Isput Creek Campground elevation 2,300’. The trail is mostly maintained with easy route finding and lots of signage along the way. Days are determined by the campsite permits that a hiker can obtain, so there can be quite an uneven range in daily mileage. This is an extremely popular hike most book through a lottery system months in advance. It is the trip of a lifetime for many!

The main question we were asked along the way, “How hard was it to get your permit?” Basically, we showed up early at the ranger station on a Monday morning with no specific expectations and took what they gave us. As it turned out, we loved our clockwise schedule that included the Spray Park alternate.

Wonder, delight, freedom, adventure, excitement, are as much a part of the mountains as peaks and forest. Realism is for tamer landscape; the mountains are inescapably romantic. ~Wallace Stegner

Wonderland Trail Overview

TRIP DATE: August 8-13, 2023
DISTANCE: Approximately 95 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 25,600′ of each ascent and descent
TRAILHEAD: There are a few starting trailheads: Longmire, Sunrise, White River, and Mowich Lake. Most hikers choose to hike the trail in a counterclockwise direction, as the biggest inclines are not as steep. We started/ended at Longmire hiking in a clockwise direction.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate difficulty with no class 2 or 3 climbing but strenuous ups and downs on established trail.
NAVIGATION: Well-marked trail
TIME TO HIKE: Mid-July to Mid-September
WATER: Many natural water sources available
PERMITS: Walk-up at Ranger Stations or advanced online permits at Recreation.gov 
CELL SERVICE: Cell service on the Wonderland Trail in Mount Rainier National Park is very spotty and unreliable with limited coverage in certain areas.

Guidebook, Maps & GPS

• Guidebook: Farout Guides – I used this every day GPS location, online map, elevation gain and loss, water sources, important locations, and camping information.
• Map: National Geographic Wonderland Trail
• GPX: Click “Open in “CalTopo” in upper left hand corner of map to view and download GPX.

How to Get a Permit

National Park Service Wonderland Trail Wilderness Permit Webpage – A go-to page for getting advanced online and walk-up permits.

Locations to Get a Walk-Up Permit for the Wonderland Trail:

• Longmire Wilderness Information Center (most popular, can be very busy)
• White River Wilderness Information Center
• Paradise Wilderness Information Center
• Carbon River Ranger Station
• Recreation.gov: You can check for walk-up permit availability (indicated by a “W”) 

Advanced Online Wilderness Permit for the Wonderland Trail:

• All advanced wilderness permits are through Recreation.gov
• Early Access Lottery Applications: February 10 – March 3, 2025 at 7:00 pm PT
• Early Access Period Window Award: March 14, 2025
• Early Access Booking Period: Begins March 21, 2025
• General On-Sale: Opens on April 25, 2025 at 7:00 am PT

Helpful Links

• National Park Service Webpage: This is an excellent resource for planning, camps, distance and elevation, and getting a permit
• This is a very informative FAQ Park Service Page for the 2025 season
• Wonderland Guides – Online trip planner. VERY helpful for getting walk up permits or applying online
• Farout Guides – I used this every day for elevation gain and loss, water sources, important locations, and camping

My Trip Itinerary

6 Day Itinerary Clockwise starting at Longmire Campground:

Day 1 – 16.8 miles – Longmire to Klapatche Park Camp
6,450 elevation gain, 3,786 elevation loss
Day 2 – 18.2 miles – Klapatche Park Camp to Mowich Lake Camp
4,218 elevation gain, 4,803 elevation loss
Day 3 – 17.8 miles – Mowich Lake Camp to Granite Creek Camp
6,286 elevation gain, 5,469 elevation loss
Day 4 – 12 miles – Granite Creek Camp to White River Camp
2,289 elevation gain, 3,806 elevation loss
Day 5 – 18.7 miles – White River Camp to Nickel Creek Camp
4,738 elevation gain, 5692 elevation loss
Day 6 –  14.4 miles – Nickel Creek Camp to Longmire Trailhead
2,756 elevation gain, 3,232 elevation loss

Route Options and Tips

• We took the Spray Park alternate and loved it.
• We also opted to climb Second Burroughs Mountain that gave amazing up-close views of Mount Rainier. Note: This well maintained trail is heavily traveled by day hikers.
• This trail can be extended to more days because of resupply and camp options.
• Hike the trail counterclockwise.
• Follow the 7 Leave No Trace Principles to minimize your impact on the environment.

Resupply

• There are 3 resupply options along the trail: Longmire, White River, and Mowich Lake. Here is the National Park Website Page for all the latest details.
• Before our hike we cached food in a plastic barrel at White River to pick up about half way on the route.

Recommended Gear

• Full Rain Gear: Rain mitts or gloves, rain jacket and rain pants (see Favorite Gear from the Hike section below). It is a rain forest and it will rain.
• Food Protection: On the Wonderland Trail, food must be stored in bear-resistant containers or hung from designated bear poles. I used my trusty Ursack and OP Sak combo.
• Satellite Messenger: I carry a Garmin inReach Mini 2 and highly recommend it.
• Backpacking Kit:  It is important to get your backpacking kit as light as possible for safety, comfort, and your health.

Day 1 – Up, Up, Down, Down, then Repeat

16.8 miles – Longmire to Klapatche Park Camp
6,450 elevation gain, 3,786 elevation loss

Highlights from the day:
✅ Drove to our beginning trailhead at Longmire without a problem
✅ Groomed trail
✅ Emerald Ridge!!!!!!!
✅ Working on getting comfortable with the bridges
✅ First dip
✅ Our first camp, like who wouldn’t be a little excited?!?!?

Pre-Trip:
After guiding with Andrew Skurka Adventures for 3 weeks in the Sierras, I hopped on a plane heading from Fresno, CA to Portland, Oregon. Melissa picked me up at the airport and we drove to Mount Rainier. It was the beginning of one fine adventure. She had just finished The Volcanic run that was close ish to Portland.

We were set up perfectly to be at the White River Office BEFORE opening time to snag a walk-up permit. Milissa came armed with several options for itineraries that she printed from an online Wonderland Trail Planner. We scored and secured a 5-night, 6-day hiking permit starting at Longmire. At the same time we were able to drop off our resupply pails to be transported to the designated pick up bins at White River. So convenient.

Day 1: We entered back into Mount Rainier National Park at Longmire, starting our trek on the Wonderland Trail. Our first campsite, Klapatche Park, was 16+ miles away with a daunting elevation gain of over 6,000 feet. The trail begins steeply. The trail is well-groomed. Luxury.

The forest feels deep and dark, with sunlight filtering through, illuminating mosses and lichens. I became worried it would be like this for 6 days. Early morning we catch our first breathtaking views of Rainier. Crossing creeks and meadows we had so much fun exploring around Indian Henry’s cabin from 1915. So cool.

After refilling our water at a prime source according to the Farout Guide App we cross a long, high suspension bridge over Tacoma Creek. It is both thrilling and nerve-wracking. The trail switches to rocky terrain as we ascend into the alpine zone, exposing stunning views. My FAVORITE! Emerald Ridge had both Milissa and I gawking and taking one photo after another. It was more than incredible.

We finally reached Klapatche Park after a long uphill climb, stopping to rinse off at St. Andrews Lake. This was an incredible relief after a hot, humid and sweaty day. Arriving at camp, we set up just before the mist rolled in, feeling grateful for this beautiful experience on the trail. 🙂

Note: Several facts are taken from Milissa’s journal of the day. View her blog at Moving Mountains.

Day 2 – Gentle Rain, Water, and Funny Bridges

18.2 miles – Klapatche Park Camp to Mowich Lake Camp
4,218 elevation gain, 4,803 elevation loss

Highlights from the day:
🏔️ Spotting a bear
🏔️ Gentle rain for most of the day
🏔️ Fog
🏔️ Streams, waterfalls, creeks EVERYWHERE
🏔️ First glimpse of Mowich Lake
🏔️ Picnic table and pit toilets at our camp, luxury!

Last night we checked the weather forecast and found there is a good chance of rain today, so we wanted to get a head start. We woke up to a few droplets but no rain, which was great!

Today’s trail descends more than it climbs and as we navigate switchbacks, we are awed by the jagged rocks and HUGE downed trees. Water cascades down from the glaciers into the valley, making for beautiful scenery.

After a long descent, we crossed the North Puyallup River on a new bridge. Continuing on a ridge line we spotted a women that was stopped and pointing to a bear in a meadow. The three of us stood for awhile to give the bear room and take in the sight. A little while later rain began falling in earnest.

We had a long drop and planned lunch at the bottom. Surprisingly we found a dry spot to eat, then tackled sketchy log crossings over the South and North Mowich Rivers. On the uphill to Mowich Lake the sun came out, making me hot and sweaty.

At camp, we admired the picturesque lake and organized our food for the big day ahead. Despite the lack of views today of Mount Rainier, the forest trail was beautiful and pleasant.

Tomorrow, we head into the Spray Park Alternate under clear skies, which we’re excited about.

Note: Several facts are taken from Milissa’s journal of the day. View her blog at Moving Mountains.

Day 3 – Glaciers and Parks

17.8 miles – Mowich Lake Camp to Granite Creek Camp
6,286 elevation gain, 5,469 elevation loss

Highlights from the day:
🏔️ A very long and luxurious mid-morning break in Spray Park timed perfectly to watch Mount Rainier popping out of cloud cover
🏔️ Miles and miles of long steep descent from Spray Park, not good
🏔️ Meeting a father and son hiking the trail, their smiles were fantastic
🏔️ Another extended lunch break complete with some lounging

🏔️ Carbon Glacier
🏔️ Washing up completely behind a tree after getting to camp, the best…

Spray Park is an alternate route from the main Wonderland Trail and is said to be very rewarding. It’s three miles shorter than the main trail but has more uphill climbing. The trail is steep with roots today. Soon, the sun starts to break through the trees, revealing glimpses of Rainier behind the clouds. It seems windy up there. Both Milissa and I wonder if anyone is climbing the mountain today.

When we reach Spray Park, the sun is shining and everything is wet with dew. We see beautiful wildflowers, grasses, and conifer trees. The trail continues to climb and is well-made with steps and rocks. This trail is popular for day hikers since it’s close to the Mowich Lake Campground, reachable by a rough dirt road.

We stop for a second breakfast in the sun, enjoying a fantastic view of Rainier, slowly taking everything in. As we head down, we first navigate a steep rocky area and then pass a few snowy patches before entering thick fog again. On the way down, we pass several lovely cascades and stop to enjoy them. The descent is several thousand feet in about 4 miles. It is brutal! At the bottom we are spent and sore. Our long break in an empty campsite was all we needed!

When we feel ready, we tackle the last climb of the day. We still have about 10 miles to go. With the sun out, we know we’ll be sweating on this steep trail. We reach the Carbon River and cross our second suspension bridge. The Carbon River comes from the melting Carbon Glacier, and the trail runs near it for a close look. There’s a sign warning us about falling rocks.

The trail up is lined with wildflowers and trees and the mist returns. When we reach Mystic Lake, it’s surrounded by fog, but we can still see the rocky peaks around it. Pretty cool. From here, we have about 4 1/2 miles to Granite Creek, our campsite for the night. We know we will arrive late, but tomorrow is a shorter mileage day.

Soon, we enter an area that has been burned, this is the first one we’ve seen on our hike. We reach the edge of the burn as we head down to Winthrop Creek, which melts from the Winthrop Glacier.

Winthrop Creek has a pretty sketch log bridge to get to the other side. The log is wet and the railing seems unstable. Now we follow the edges of the Winthrop Glacier for our last push to camp, another thousand-foot climb to Granite Creek.

When we finally reach Granite Creek Campsite I am HOT and sweaty and need a good bath. I quickly head behind a tree, strip my clothes and dump a whole liter of water over my entire body. I am very happy.

Tomorrow, will be quite a different day, shorter with a possibility of buying snacks at Sunrise Store. Yaaaaay.

Note: Several facts are taken from Milissa’s journal of the day. View her blog at Moving Mountains.

Day 4 – Too Many Goofy Laughs, Short Day, Sunrise Score

12 miles – Granite Creek Camp to White River Camp
2,289 elevation gain, 3,806 elevation loss

Highlights from the day:
🏔️ Views, Views, Views
🏔️ Drying out ALL our gear from a wet night
🏔️ Laughing…A LOT
🏔️ Climbing 1st and 2nd Burroughs Mountain along with All the other people

🏔️ Eating the things I never should eat from the Sunrise Store
🏔️ Organizing gear on the picnic table at White River Campsite
🏔️ Cold plunge in White River at sunset

After getting a little later start, we began to climb, we noticed the skies were clear. It didn’t take long before we shed our jackets and pants as we warmed up in the sun and enjoyed some fantastic views. It was a crystal-clear day. Reaching Skyscraper Pass, the trail changed to a rockier path with less vegetation. The scenery was dramatic and magical. We stop by a creek to dry our gear in the sun, enjoying snacks and ALL THE VIEWS.

Soon we meet a gentleman from Scotland. He suggests we hike up to the Burroughs Mountain for a great up close view of Mount Rainier. We decide to follow his advice. The views and trail to second Burroughs was amazing and definitely worth the extra effort. Beware there are A LOT day hikers coming from Sunrise Visitors Center. It is quite a shock actually.

When we reached Sunrise, we headed straight to the Snack Bar and found a great selection of sandwiches and drinks. We settled at a picnic table in the shade, enjoying our food alongside a cold beer. We even treated ourselves to a bottle of local wine for later at camp.

The 2.5 mile hike down to White River was steep, a 1,900 ft descent. Our campsite at White River was perfect, spacious with a picnic table. After setting up, we picked up our resupply pails and organized our food and gear. Then, we headed to the river for a relaxing soak. We sipped our wine and watched the sunset as the sun disappeared behind the ridge, lighting up the valley.

Note: Several facts are taken from Milissa’s journal of the day. View her blog at Moving Mountains.

Day 5 – Windy Panhandler Gap and Marmot Family

18.7 miles – White River Camp to Nickel Creek Camp
4,738 elevation gain, 5692 elevation loss

Highlights from the day:
🏔️ Cold plunge in turquoise tarn below Panhandler Gap
🏔️ Panhandler Gap, really the whole area…WOWZER
🏔️ Ridge walking
🏔️ End of day cold dip in Nickel Creek

First order of the day is crossing the White River on that sketchy log. The water level has dropped about a foot overnight, but it still touches the log. Luckily, we cross without getting our feet wet.

We enter the forest and walk for a while on a wide path that runs next to the river and the road before starting to climb around the Frying Pan Creek Trailhead. Many day hikers are heading up to Summerland and Panhandle Gap. The trail climbs alongside Fryingpan Creek, which is sometimes a roaring gorge of water.

Today we will reach the highest point of the trail AND it’s supposed to be sunny and hot. The weather has been very varied this whole trip. Hot, cold, wet, dry, sunny, foggy, cloudy, humid, windy etc. I have to say THIS is the sweatiest trail I have ever hiked. It is very humid.

We stop for a quick snack and water break at Summerland Camp. Summerland would be a fantastic place to camp. The views here include the Fryingpan Glacier and other impressive features. One mile below the Gap, we find a little turquoise lake and decide to take a break, soak and eat there. We climb to the Gap feeling cool in our wet clothes. From up here, we see amazing views of Mount Adams and far away Mount Hood. It’s incredible!

The trail now descends steeply for a few miles to a place called Indian Bar. Along the way, we walk close to a huge valley formed by the Ohanapecosh Glacier’s runoff with several waterfalls cascading down from the melting glaciers. It’s breathtaking.

As we drop to Indian Bar, we are back among trees, grasses, and flowers. Today is our longest day, and we know we won’t get to camp early. Nickel Creek Camp is lower down and will be hot and muggy.

We take a long, refreshing break at Indian Bar and leave with wet shirts. We face a steep climb right away, then reach a ridge. Our views of Rainier fill the sky again as we look back at the Ohanapecosh Glacier and its surrounding peaks and waterfalls. Next up is a lengthy ridge walk. The ridge walk is fun and incredible.

We come across a family of marmots and watch three baby marmots play together; it’s the cutest thing. Mama and the other adults are on guard and see big Papa and Mama sitting on a rock soaking up the sun.

Next up a drop of another 1,400 feet over two miles into very low elevation. To our surprise, the last two miles turn out to be very pleasant. We find ourselves in a beautiful forest with space between the trees TO SEE.

What a day! We set up our tents in site #1 and head to the creek with our gear to relax, bathe, and have dinner there to stay cool.

Tomorrow is our last day, with 13 miles to go and a long drive to Portland. This has been such an amazing and different experience for me and I have loved having such a fun and strong partner to share it with.

Note: Several facts are taken from Milissa’s journal of the day. View her blog at Moving Mountains.

Day 6 – Final Push

14.4 miles – Nickel Creek Camp to Longmire Trailhead
2,756 elevation gain, 3,232 elevation loss

Highlights from the day:
🏔️ Tall trees
🏔️ Cooling off by sitting in the water under a tall waterfall
🏔️ Cowlitz River Gorge
🏔️ Finishing this trip with such a great hiking partner 🙂

Interesting day. Big sections of this stretch crossed or paralleled busy Stevens Canyon Road. That means it is popular and well-traveled with lots of beautiful tourist stops that are accessible from the road.

Being our last day on trail, with a goal to finish, then drive to Portland, we got our usual early start. It was cool, shaded, and quiet. My favorite. We soon reach the bridge crossing a gorge over the Muddy Fork Cowlitz River. It is ominous and LOUD. Soon after, the trail following the Stevens River had many washouts and steep slippery ascents and descents. At snack I quickly sat in a creek to cool off and enjoyed being immersed in the moss, water, sound, and GREEN. Taking in the whole Wonderland Trail experience knowing it soon would be finished. It felt luxurious.

Gotta say the remainder of the day because of lack of remoteness I focused on our last views of Mount Rainier, so many waterfalls, gorgeous lakes, and the last washed out crossing of the Paradise River.

It is always sweet and sad to end a big hike like this. So cool, that everything worked out and so emotional that it has ended. Milissa and I made an awesome team. I am thankful for her tenacity, powerful legs, and sense of humor. Until next time.

Favorite Gear from the Hike

• Rain Pants – You will need them! If not for rain, for wind, snow, and any other cold blasts that come along. I slept in mine on this trip. Here is the women’s version (size medium) I use HERE and the men’s version (size small) HERE.
• Rain Jacket – Again bring a newer rain jacket that is waterproof. I have a few rain jackets that I like. On this trip I brought my women’s Montbell Versalite (size medium).
• Waterproof Gloves or Mittens – For this trip I used lined Showa Gloves . Note: Showa Gloves run very small, I wear a size large.

My Thoughts

Surprising things I LOVED while hiking The Wonderland Trail:
✔️ALL the OPEN views, PARKS, and ridge lines
✔️Crazy, broken wood bridges and walkways that did not look safe
✔️Required camps with open pit toilets (I managed to use every single one we camped at)
✔️Cold water dips
✔️Giant, melting, glaciers covered with dirt
✔️Challenging daily elevation change
✔️Challenging rocky, steep, trail washouts (there are quite a few)
✔️AND all the laughter (pretty sure we exceeded the maximum quota in this department)

Have any questions, comments, or memories that you’d like to share? Let me know in the comments below!