“There are some good things to be said about walking. Not many, but some. Walking takes longer, for example, than any other known form of locomotion except crawling. Thus it stretches time and prolongs life. Life is already too short to waste on speed. I have a friend who’s always in a hurry; he never gets anywhere. Walking makes the world much bigger and thus more interesting. You have time to observe the details.
~Edward Abbey
Remote. Open. Wild. Unforgiving. Waterless.
Death Valley National Park is one of those unique places that speaks to the soul, makes one feel small, dissolves worries, and demands the hiker to stay on alert.
In this multi-day backpack through southern Death Valley, you will trek up wide washes, visit abandoned mines, travel through narrow canyons, maneuver down dry-falls, cross sand flats and salt pans in the shadow of the Black and Panamint ranges.
Trip Details
TRIP DATE February 18-22, 2018
LENGTH About 109 miles, shuttle
ELEVATION GAIN 10,495 feet elevation gain
TRAILHEAD Beginning in the southern tip of Death Valley on Henry Wade Road and ending at Stovepipe Wells
DIFFICULTY Easy to difficult with travel on old mining roads, jeep roads, and off-trail class 2 and 3 with bouldering on loose scree and down-climbing dry falls in Unnamed Canyon below Sheep Pass
NAVIGATION Good map and compass and GPS skills needed
BEST TIME TO HIKE Winter, Spring, and Fall
WATER No natural water – we placed 6 water caches the day before the trip
PERMITS Free Backcountry Permit at the Furnace Creek or Stovepipe Wells Ranger Stations
RESOURCES Backpacker Magazine Trip Planner
Death Valley National Park (National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map
Pre-trip
Sally and I met at Stovepipe Wells Village Hotel late Friday night, ready to get started driving and placing water and food along our route on Saturday. Death Valley allows hikers to cache water with the requirement they haul out empty bottles and trash. We cached 2 gallons of water for each of us under bushes in gallon jugs. We liked the Crystal Geyser brand. They smashed easily, were very lightweight, and had a small plastic handle.
This is a one-way trip. For the shuttle, we left one car at the Stovepipe Wells Ranger Station and the other just off of Henry Wade Road.
We first stopped at the Furnace Creek Ranger station to get a backcountry permit, then spent the entire day driving and placing water and food caches along our upcoming 110 mile entirely waterless route. Tonight, we are camped off the side of Henry Wade Road at the beginning of our hike. It is very windy with blowing sand. Pitching my tent was a bit of a challenge.
Locations of Water and Food Caches:
- Salsbury Pass – Food and water
- Gold Valley – Water
Note: This can be a rough road, only for 4 wheel high clearance vehicles. The road was in pretty good condition when we were there. - Badwater Road – Water
- West Side Road where the route intersects after crossing Death Valley – Water
Note: This was an extra water cache, not required and just right on the way driving. If the temps would have been hot, this would be a good idea. - Shorty’s Well – Food and water
- West Side Road and Devil’s Speedway – Water
Day 1 – Breathe BIG
Henry Wade Road to Buckwheat Wash
15 miles cross-country & jeep road
After a very windy and sandy night at the trailhead, Sally and I headed out on the first leg. Starting at the southern tip of Death Valley National Park, we followed the Ibex Hills to Ibex Springs (a historic location with Palm Trees), then headed down into and up Buckwheat Wash.
We spent a lot of our day gathering stray popped mylar balloons and are now on a mad search for at least 1 wildflower in this park. No super bloom this year.
I spent the last 3 weeks with a crappy chest cold and this trip is definitely a stretch for me. My feet and back ache. Consequently, after enjoying a showy sunset, I am promptly in bed at 6:00 pm.
Day 2 – BIG Rocks are Good
Upper Buckwheat Wash to Greenwater Valley
15.5 miles cross-country and old mining roads
Gusty winds picked up in the middle of the night, making for a mad dash to reinforce tent stakes with bigger rocks.
Today we had a steady climb along the Ibex Mountains and Greenwater Valley through slot canyons, washes, and open territory. Mid-day, we reached our first food and water cache at Salsbury Pass.
The temps have been cool with a nice show of clouds in the afternoon. BTW, we did find the only flower in the park, so the search is over.
Day 3 – BIG Skies
Greenwater Valley to Sheep Canyon
19.36 miles mostly cross-country and some jeep road
Rain sprinkled on my tent in the night, woke up to an amazing sunrise…no complaints. Lots of climbing and descending today in very cool weather.
After heading up Greenwater Canyon, we dropped into Gold Valley, picked up water, climbed to Sheep Canyon Pass, then went down into Sheep Canyon via an unnamed canyon.
The drop off from Sheep Pass was a bit unnerving, with unstable rock. We took the nonexistent old mining route down.
The long unnamed canyon was a challenge maneuvering loose rock and dirt and going up and over many dry falls (rock cliffs). The unnamed canyon would be nice to come back and slowly explore.
It has been crazy hard to get to our intended destination each night by dark (5:30). The stars are bright in this canyon tonight, so worth hustling to make it this far.
Day 4 – Rock Solid Day
Sheep Canyon to Shorty’s Well
20 miles cross-country and dirt road
After descending 2,500 feet over rocky terrain in Sheep Canyon, we headed across Death Valley Basin. The travel over the flat was a long haul over pointy mud that looked like miniature snow tipped mountains. It was tedious and took a long time.
Tonight, we are enjoying a warm night at Shorty’s Well bathed in the shadow of the Panamint Mountains. The food/water cache and adult beverages is the icing on the cake. Oh and I used my extra wash to take a needed bath.
The stars again are simply spectacular…really… like diamonds.
Day 5 – BIG Winds
Shorty’s Well to Badwater Road
11 miles on dirt road in high winds
Big change of plans…after walking 7 miles in strong headwinds and blowing sand and dust ?we made a joint decision to exit out at Furnace Creek. For two ladies with contact lens, this does not bode well.
With a generous hitch to my car from a very nice teacher on break, we were able to make it back to Sally’s car at the beginning of our hike.
Tonight we are celebrating a very successful trip and long time friendship under the stars with adult beverages.
Hey, if you want to follow me in real-time, I post regularly on Instagram. Instagram is a great way for me to share my outdoor photos, where I am and what I am doing. I would love if you followed along. Just go to my profile page and click follow.
Interested in other Death Valley Trips?
- Darwin Falls
- Telescope Peak
- Cottonwood-Marble Canyon Loop Backpack
- Death Valley Muti-Activity Trip
- Badwater Basin to Top of Mount Whitney – Lowest to Highest
Hey, is there any shuttle services that would pick me up so I could do this without 2 cars?
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This is awesome!
It is a good route, but no water. The water caching is not easy like L2H. I am planning on finishing the second half of the route this winter. Hope you are well.
Hiya
First time reader. Couldn’t quite make out your shoes. If they can take all of that, I must get a pair. What are they?
Welcome Naomi,
I use the La Sportiva Bushido Trail Running Shoe. Here is a link. I have used the shoe for a few years in all kinds of conditions and they work beautifully. I do buy them a size bigger and add an arch support insole.
Thanks a lot! God bless you and all yours
I really like the updated format and thr very organized and complete trip report. Perfect blend of info and photos. Keep setting the bar high, and keep Rockin’!
Well, there are prices to pay when you don’t update a blog regularly! :0 There were so many backend updates and changes to make. I just might have it semi under control now. Glad you like the format. I just did a whole revamp on my Gear Page that I am excited about. Thank you for your input and friendship!
Rockin, You are an inspiration and a role model. There are many where age and injury have set in who only wish they could do a fraction of what you do. Thanks for letting me tag along. It’s looking like a light snow year in the Southern Sierra. I hope you can get out there so I can tag along through this media.
Nick,
Thank you for your very encouraging words. I just happen to be in the middle of planning some routes in the Sierras this summer. It has been raining for a few days here. That means snow in the High Sierra. It might be a late snow pack this year. Glad to have you along Nick :).
You never disappoint Rockin! I will going to Eureka Dunes in April and wondered if you hiked in that area of Death Valley?
Eureka Dunes is high on my list. I have heard it is quite amazing. I just may be continuing this route north during Spring break from Stovepipe Wells. It goes north a couple hundred miles and ends at Eureka Dunes.
Have fun in April! The rocks move there.
Christy! You just keep keeping’ on kid! Did you take all those great shots with your camera again? You need to come back to visit us in Georgia. Still working’ on my second novel.
Can’t wait to get a shiny new copy in my mailbox someday. Waiting…
Yes, with my camera. I have a new one, the Sony A6000. I think I like it.
Big news! Grant is moving in June from Nashville to Seattle. I am certain Georgia will be on my list someday. You know you are always welcome in Tehachapi!
Great to hear from you.
Nice to see you our and about – great pictures and sounds like an interesting trip. Wish it had not been so windy for you.
Lucy,
Yes, man oh man the desert can be brutal in high winds. I think we are going to continue our route north during the Spring break. Cross your fingers for good weather.
Hi Christy!
Your hikes never disappoint! I enjoy living these places vicariously through you for now. Love the pictures. Thank you for sharing ❤️
OH thank you Denise. Thank you for reading and sharing. Glad to have you along for the ride. 🙂
Great post. Beautiful photography. Wonderful company! Another superb and extremely fun trip! ?
I think this is the first of a few memorable trips this year. After all we have a lot to celebrate this year “15 Years of Hiking Together”. OH Ya.
Hi Christy! Firstly, thank you again for your kind hospitality in Tehachapi while I hiked the PCT this summer….and secondly, so thrilled to see that you posted about your Death Valley Traverse hike….I’ve been kicking around the idea of doing this and now it is firmly penned onto my Bucket List. And let me tell you, I totally understand the sand in the eyes—I no longer wear contacts and a few months ago went for a run in a very sandy area and got so much grit in my eyes that they didn’t feel at all comfortable until I opened them again after a night of sleep. Would love to chat with you more about the hike at some point. Be Well!
PAAAATTTTTYYY, How are you? I wondered how you fared the rest of the PCT and thought of you often. The Sierras were intense.
You are welcome to ask away about the DV trip. You know where to find me. There is a second half that goes from Stovepipe Wells north to the Racetrack. I am planning on doing that also in the future. Again, great to hear from you.
As always, stunning photos and trip report! I like following on IG, but the blog is a great resource as well.
Hello Lynda! You sound just like my family. I certainly agree and need to get back at it. Selfishly it also helps me to remember the important details about a trip or experience. Thank you for the nudge. I needed that. Hope you are well. Thanks for your very kind comment.
Hey Christy,
So cool to see a post from you! I really admire the very wild and interesting places you tackle. That you hiked 15-20 miles days after a nasty cold is also pretty amazing. Looked like you both had fun. Thanks so much for sharing. Can’t wait to read about your 2018.
Warren,
It is good to be back on this site after a large break. Glad you are still following along. Hope you are well and planning lots of new trips upcoming. Again, thank you for always being there.
So glad to see you out on the trail again. Great photos!
Well Janet, good to hear from you! Yep, it has been a long time since I have posted on the site. It is about time. We are getting the much needed rain. I was really concerned for the forests we both cherish. You just know I love taking those photos! Wishing you the very best.