Updated: January 1, 2023

The test of an adventure is when you’re in the middle of it say to yourself, ‘Oh, now I’ve got myself into an awful mess; I wish…
~ Thornton Wilder

Yosemite High Route Overview

The Yosemite High Route is a newer high route published by Andrew Skurka that is divided into 2 main sections, the northern and southern core routes. The eloquent backpack travels mostly off trail through the beautiful and remote Yosemite High Country. The main route or core route is approximately 94 miles long, starting from Grace Meadow, just southwest of Dorothy Lake near the northern Yosemite Park boundary to the southern terminus, Quartzite Peak, north of Yosemite Valley. Of these 94 miles, 70% are cross country, and the route gains and loses a total gain and loss of 59,000′ of elevation. The route traverses several sub-ranges of the Sierra Nevada, crosses 15 passes, skirts by each of the 10 highest peaks in the park, and visits the park’s only two glaciers. Also, it traverses the headwaters of two of California’s major rivers and 25 named creeks.

The guidebook Andrew created features beautiful maps, detailed data books, and written route descriptions. Its is designed with many options for accessing the route, hiking in different directions, hiking it in sections, or as a thru-hike. As with all of Andrew’s guidebooks, they are detailed but leave room for adventure. It really is a “choose your own adventure”. Both termini lie deep in the park’s wilderness. Skurka provides several approach options from each end, adding between 25 and 80 miles. The route can be done as a point-to-point or as a figure-8 out of Tuolumne Meadows.

This is a challenging, demanding, and very rewarding route for hikers with good navigation skills, that are comfortable on class 2 and 3 rock scrambles, traveling off-trail and on extended talus fields. 

TRIP DATE  August 27-31, 2019
DISTANCE 63.9 miles (32.7 miles on trail, 31.2 miles cross country)
ELEVATION GAIN 17,784feet vertical gain
TRAILHEAD This trip started from Rafferty Trail to access Yosemite High Route Southern Terminus below Quartzite Peak
DIFFICULTY Strenuous with some class 2 climbing
NAVIGATION Map and Compass required, GPS, advanced
BEST TIME TO HIKE Summer, early fall
WATER Abundant natural sources
PERMITS Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Center Walk-in or online 
CELL SERVICE High point northwest of Lemonade Pass, tarn above JMT overlooking Lyell Canyon

Guidebook, Maps  & GPS

• Andrew Skurka Guidebook – Purchase and download online
• Map set printed on 11 X 17 paper from Andrew’s guide – I use Fed Ex online printing service.
• Yosemite National Park (National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map)
• GPS track I created on Cal Topo (not actual route)

Click “Open in “CalTopo” in upper right hand corner of map to view and download GPX.

Video Highlights

Route Description

I have hiked the southern core route twice, the first time in August 2019, solo in a very high snow year and the second as a guide with a group of 7 hikers in July 2020. At the time of my first trip, Skurka’s guidebook descriptions of the route were not yet finished and had very little information. However, the map pack and data sheets were complete and excellent. Since then the descriptions have been updated with important and helpful details. For that reason, I have left out some recommendations that are now in the guidebook. This trip report is PART 2 of 2. Part 1 being the Northern Core Section. 

For my first hike in 2019, I accessed the southern terminus via the Rafferty Creek Trail (all trail) and the second via the Echo Canyon (trail, use trail with a good portion off trail). Both were completed in one full day of hiking and  are scenic. If you prefer to access remote backcountry quickly and want to use your navigation skills first off, then I recommend the Echo Canyon access. The Rafferty Creek Trail is well-maintained and passes by beautiful lakes.

Note: The guidebook descriptions are written in the northbound direction from the southern terminus to Tuolumne Meadows, not southbound from Tuolumne Meadows.

Day 1 – Tuolumne Meadows to Southern Terminus

August 27
17 miles crossing Tuolumne Pass

I decided to get a very early start and was in line at the Tuolumne Wilderness Center 30 minutes before it opened. After getting my choice of access permit to the southern terminus, Rafferty Creek Trail, I set out on a pretty good clip. About a mile in, a yellow jacket bit the front of my shin right through my dirty girl gaiters. Okay, that hurt A LOT. I stopped quickly and smeared lavender essential oil all over the front of my shin. After about another mile, a very nice ranger stopped me and checked my permit, but did not ask about a bear can. Puzzling.

To beat the heat, I got to the terminus which drops very low, camped and plan a very early start in the morning. My shin continues to ache and swell. There is horrible camping at the terminus. I recommend camping at Merced Lake or if desperate in Echo Valley (lots of downed trees). There are yellow jackets hovering on the mesh of my tent. :0

Photos of Day 1:

Day 2 – Southern Terminus to Below Sue Pass

August 28
8.1 miles crossing Lemonade Pass

A very warm night. The arduous 4,000′ climb to the top of Quartzite Creek went quickly, about 3 hours. I was very glad I left early this morning.  I thrashed through brush and ledges on the first 100′ feet or so of the climb. I also, climbed the actual ridge to the top of Quartzite Peak, but it is much easier to climb the gully, drop your pack at the saddle, and hike the short climb to the top.

Note: The guidebook now has a detailed description and I recommend that route.

I had clusters of knats attacking me at the top, but the views of the Cathedral Range, Half Dome and all of Yosemite from Quartzite Peak  are indeed stunning! Don’t miss it.

The rocky drop off from the next ridge (I think it should be named and labeled as another pass) lead to a lovely tarn where I ate lunch.  Lemonade Pass from a distance looked crazy steep. The reports were not positive about the safety, so I checked out the 3rd right chute and it went really well and I had a fun climb on solid rock with a couple easy class 3 moves.

I took a dip in Adair Lake and headed up to my intended destination, Sue Pass. It was indeed a great day. My shin is still aching and swollen. I started taking Benadryl at night.

Photos of Day 2:

Day 3 – Below Sue Pass to Lake 10217

August 29
14.2 miles crossing Sue and Foerster Passes

I was able to enjoy the top of Sue Pass just as the sun rose up over the horizon. It was one of those special moments I revisit often. The route descends and catches the Red Peak Pass Trail for 8.8 miles. It was a cruise of a morning.

The lingering snow blocked the way around the right side of Harriet Lake, which is the direct route and recommended access route up to Foerster Peak Pass. After traversing around and dropping a bit I found a very steep chute up to my next objective. It is one of those passes that look like you are going to be at the top, but then you look at your map and it is not even close.

Once atop Foerster, I looked at the other side and thought, “NO WAY!” After a break, some deep breathing, and getting over how handsome Mount Ansel Adams appeared directly across from this steep pass, I scouted around and found a lovely chute filled with loose rock on the left side of the low section of the pass. It goes and I picked my way down loose rock to the fairyland surrounding Lake 10217. The sunset at this lake is one of the best I have witnessed.

Note: Skurka’s guidebook now has an excellent description of this descent.

Photos from Day 3:

Day 4 – Lake 10217 to Tarns Above John Muir Trail

August 30
7.2 miles crossing Sluggo and Russell Passes

There is lovely walking to access Sluggo Pass, the next destination, then the talus starts. After enjoying sunrise at the top of Sluggo Pass, I picked my way down the pass avoiding the class 4 slabs indicated on the map. The descent off Sluggo is a bit tricky and I ended up contouring using ledges, then accessed another ledge and repeated. This most likely is not the easiest way down.

After a break at a small tarn, the next climb begins up to the next hurdle, Russell Pass. As I climbed, I was able to walk on snow fields avoiding navigating a sea of talus. Be sure and check your maps carefully. The pass is on the left of this little valley, not at the low spot at the head.

Russell Pass is steep with lots of loose rock, but is very doable and can be climbed many different ways.

The hiker is rewarded at the top with an expansive view of Mclure Glacier and valleys below. I crossed over to the left, descended on talus to meet the glacier. So much fun walking on a sun-cupped glacier. What a rare treat.

This section of the route is a harsh and remote land of rock and ice.

Today was the first day I felt a bit unnerved and was reminded that there are consequences hiking solo in rough off-trail terrain. I was thankful to be carrying a Garmin Mini Satellite Communicator to check in each night. Still have not seen a soul.

Photos from Day 4:

Day 5 – Tarn Above John Muir Trail to Tuolumne Meadows

August 31
16.5 miles crossing Kuna Crest Saddle

I decided if I hoofed it, I could make it back to Tuolumne Meadows by evening and drive home.

The day had lovely walking with no major obstacles and straightforward navigation. Highlight of the day was the morning rising of Mount Ritter and Banner Peak from the tarn just north of Donohue Pass. It reminds me of one of those books with pictures that move and appear as you flip the pages. Do they make those anymore?

The views of the Kuna Crest and walking along Kuna Creek reminded me of hiking across Scotland.

After taking my last selfies of the trip on top of Kuna Crest and descending to Spillway Creek to hit trail, I saw my first humans. There is a no camp zone 9 miles along the last part of the route to Tuolumne. The entirety of the Dana Fork watershed within Yosemite National Park, including Spillway Lake and up to and along the park boundary, is closed to camping due to water quality preservation.

The rest of the trek felt a bit surreal coming off a trip like this and actually pulling it off solo. Before attempting this route, I contacted Andrew in hopes of getting the finished descriptions before undertaking this southern high route trek. Unfortunately, the PDF was not yet finished. However, he kindly emailed me back and I quote wrote, “You’ll be fine.”

But I think I am lucky that happened. I learned to depend on my own skill set, be confident, have courage, pull up my big girl panties, and take the next step. This trip is definitely for hardy hikers with a driving curiosity of wondering what’s around the bend with the determination to take on whatever it brings. ⠀

Tips and Options

The following are my opinions for making a trip safer and more enjoyable.

Northern or Southern Core Route?

• This is the number #1 question I have received after completing both sections. Which is easier? Northern or Southern? It depends. If you are comfortable on a bit of Stanton Pass’s, class 3 rock, the northern section has more meadows and less talus fields than the southern. The southern section is more a “high route” feel that is remote, wild, scenic, difficult, and unforgiving.

Navigation

• It is helpful to navigate to each of Skurka’s waypoints on his map set. There is some distance between each point, which can be navigated differently by each hikers style and snow/water levels.
• Check the location of landmarks with map and compass before progressing, especially passes, canyons, and lakes. Backtracking because you discover you have climbed the wrong pass is not fun.
• Print your maps 11 X 17 (not 8 1/2 X 11) as recommended, you will thank me.
• Print the detailed guidebook double sided. I also download the PDFs of the data sheets and guidebook on Google Drive as a back up.
• If you do not own a good compass, this is a great time to purchase one. I use the Suunto M-3g Global Pro Compass  and love it. Get one with a declination adjustment. Here is a course on navigation with information and instructional videos. Also, it is a great refresher for the experienced hiker.
• I carried a Garmin Mini Satellite Communicator and highly recommend it, especially on a solo off trail trek.

Gear

• Yosemite National Park requires a bear canister in the entire park.
• Get your backpack as light as possible. Off-trail travel is very difficult and dangerous with a heavy pack. Examine carefully each item in your pack if you really need it, looking for items to pack that serve dual or even triple uses, then leave some items behind. For example, on hard routes or long hikes, I leave my pillow, camp shoes, any extra clothing, camera, extra socks, beanie, footprint for tent, extra toiletries, and extra food behind. I bring my lightest tent, sleeping bag, and backpack. Need some ideas? Here is the link to my lightweight gear list.

Photo | Video

• View all photos from the trip on Flickr
• View video on You Tube

Links to other High Routes

• Backpack the Yosemite High Route- Northern Core Route
• Southern Sierra High Route
• Lowest to Highest: Badwater to Mount Whitney
• Sierra High Route 
• Wind River High Route

If you hike this route, tag @christyrosander on Instagram and use the hashtag #ladyonarock so I can take a look!

Happy Adventuring!

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