Traverse of the Inconsolable Range: Peaks from Bishop Pass to Big Pine Creek

The miles are not what you count, but rather the day is counted in passes, creeks, peaks, basins, valleys, and talus fields.
~ Rockin’

High Route Overview: Climbing Mt. Goode 13,085′, Mt. Agassiz 13,893′, Cloudripper 13,525′, Vagabond 13,374′

TRIP DATE: September 27-30, 2024
DISTANCE: 26.83 miles
ELEVATION GAIN: 10,633′
TRAILHEAD: Shuttle trip beginning at Bishop Pass Trailhead ending at Big Pine Creek Trailhead
DIFFICULTY: Strenuous with maintained trail, off trail travel on boulder and talus fields, some class 2/3 scrambling. Recommended for hikers with previous experience climbing on talus and class 2/3 rock with a loaded backpack.
NAVIGATION: Good map and compass skills required and GPS of route
BEST TIME TO HIKE: Summer and Fall
WATER: Many natural water sources available
PERMITS: Required for overnight camping at recreation.gov online reservations
CELL SERVICE: None

Guidebook, Maps, and GPS

• Secor’s The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, Trails route peak and pass descriptions
• Overview Map: Bishop Pass/North Lake to South Lake Loop
• Printed map set I created on CalTopo, then have printed on 11 X 17 paper (highly recommended) – I use Fed Ex online printing service.
• Click “Open in “CalTopo” in upper left hand corner of map to view and download GPX.

Trip Itinerary

Afternoon/Evening:
Shuttle cars leave one at Bishop Pass Trailhead and another at Big Pine Creek Trailhead.
Starting at Bishop Creek Trailhead, the trek to Long Lake is a nice warm-up with stunning views.
Day 1:
The journey continues from Long Lake to Bishop Lake, followed by a climb to the summit of Mount Goode for panoramic vistas. Descending via Bishop Pass, explore the serene tarn below Mount Agassiz, a good spot to camp.
Day 2:
The hike begins at the tarn below Mount Agassiz, leading to the summit of Mount Agassiz, which offers spectacular views. The route then traverses Jigsaw Pass, revealing alpine scenery before reaching the first tarn below Jigsaw Pass.
Day 3:
From the first tarn below Jigsaw Pass, the trail weaves to Fifth Lake, followed by Seventh Lake. The hike continues up to Cloudripper Peak, an impressive climb before descending to Vagabond Peak and finally returning to camp at Seventh Lake.
Day 4:
The journey leads hiker back through Big Pine North Fork Trail to the Big Pine Trailhead, ending with a scenic drive to Bishop Pass Trailhead to pick up the car.

Route Options and Tips

• Complete entire trip without climbing peaks: Bishop Pass Trailhead > Jigsaw Pass > Seventh Lake > Big Pine Creek Trailhead. Note: This route is arduous and requires prior experience on class 2/3 rock.
• Complete route as a loop, climbing both Mount Good and Agassiz omitting shuttle and route over Jigsaw Pass: Bishop Pass Trailhead > Mount Goode > Bishop Pass > Mount Agassiz > Bishop Pass Trailhead
• Add an overnight excursion up to Sam Mack Meadow to the foot of the Palisades. Trail leaves Big Pine Lakes Basin to the meadow between Third and Fourth Lake.
• Lovely camping at Bishop Lake.
• A safe route up Jigsaw Pass from the west will take some route finding and will required some extra time. The terrain on the east side of Jigsaw is easier downhill walking.
• Follow the 7 Leave No Trace Principles to minimize your impact on the environment.

Recommended Gear

• Food Protection: Food, trash, and scented items must be stored in bear-safe containers in the Bishop Pass Area.
• Satellite Messenger: I carry a Garmin inReach Mini 2 and highly recommend it.
• Helmet: I recommend a lightweight, good fitting climbing helmet. This helmet is easy to carry, very comfortable, and breaths well. I don’t even notice it when wearing or carrying it on my backpack.
• Backpacking Kit:  It is important to get your backpacking kit as light as possible for safety, comfort, and your health. Here is my current lightweight backpacking gear list.

Daily Journal

Evening

Bishop Pass Trailhead > Long Lake
2.5 miles
1,142′ elevation gain

Pre-trip preparations were crucial for this hike, involving a strategic car shuttle plan that allowed for a seamless experience. We decided to leave one vehicle at the Big Pine Trailhead and another at the Bishop Pass Trailhead. This setup enabled us to hike in a couple of miles toward Long Lake without worrying about transportation logistics after our trek.

The experience was further enhanced by the breathtaking fall lighting and colors we encountered along the South Lake Road. The vibrant hues of orange, red, and gold painted the landscape, creating a stunning backdrop for our adventure. The crisp autumn air was refreshing, and each step we took allowed us to soak in the beauty of nature at its finest. The combination of the serene environment and the picturesque scenery made every moment of our hike memorable. As we continued our journey, we were constantly reminded of the incredible sights that fall brings to the mountains, making it a perfect time for hiking.

Pitching my tent on the first night of a BIG trip is such a renewal. Organizing all my gear inside is a happy experience. My heart is full tonight.

Day 1

Long Lake > Bishop Lake > summit of Mount Goode > Bishop Pass > tarn below Mount Agassiz
7.12 miles
3,806′ elevation gain

After a night of no real problems and some morning coffee, we aimed to ascend Mount Goode today. Then, we planned to camp at the base of Mount Agassiz. The easiest class 2 route up Mt Goode is the southeast slope from Bishop Lake. Once you pass Saddlerock Lake via Bishop Pass Trail, go cross country westward. Head toward Mt Goode, which will be right in front of you at this point. It is roughly 3.6 miles from the trailhead to the point past Saddlerock Lake where you will turn west and head cross country. After reaching Bishop Lake we stashed extra gear not needed for the climb up Mt Goode.

Next, head across towards the south side of Goode and start working your way up the south/ southeast slope. The route up is straight forward with lots of options and use trails along the way. The summit is nice and flat with 360 degree views.

Michelle and I enjoyed the accomplishment. It was the perfect vantage point to scout out tomorrow’s route up Mount Agassiz and over Jigsaw Pass. We returned down to Bishop Lake about the same way we came up.

Bishop Lake is an ideal spot to lunch, take a dip, and lounge around a bit. We embraced the opportunity with pleasure.

After skirting Bishop Lake to catch the Bishop Pass Trail once again, the trail switchbacks up to Bishop Pass, a huge wide area. We headed cross country to a small tarn, gathered water and headed up to locate a good camp. The search for a rock and vegetation free location to pitch took some time, but so worth it. The payoff included views and a bit of shelter from the wind. The location set us up perfectly for an early morning summit of Mount Agassiz.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE DAY:
💫Climbing Mount Goode without a full backpack
💫Views of Mount Agassiz, Mount Winchell, and the west side of the Palisade Crest from the top of Mount Goode
💫Lounging for a good bit of time at Bishop Lake
💫Setting up and sleeping in my tent

Day 2

Tarn below Mount Agassiz > Mount Agassiz summit > Jigsaw Pass > 1st tarn below Jigsaw Pass
3.59 miles
1,732′ elevation gain

I just love reflecting back on a day that you think, “That was freakin’ awesome.” OR “This was the hardest and most challenging day and I am glad I am still alive!” Whelp this was Day 2.

I have passed by Mount Agassiz a few times through the years with intentions of climbing the peak. Just shy of 14,000 feet, it dominates the area and is one of the 20 highest peaks of California. It is the northernmost and easiest to climb of the major Palisades summits. This monster of a peak was definitely on my unfinished business list.

This day started with a cross country journey towards the western slopes of Agassiz. I left unneeded contents of my pack at an unnamed tarn near the start of the slopes. There were a number of steep gullies splitting the face, all of them seeming to go from below. Keeping to the right offered the most solid rock. This path avoided some of the looser scree in the wider gully on the northwest slopes. I was surprised at how solid the rock was as I climbed. I was also pleased. There was very little shifting beneath me as long as I stuck to the larger talus.

I followed this gully nearly up to the southern ridgeline of Agassiz. There, it became less clear if I could follow the jagged ridgeline to the summit. I traversed north across a smaller intermediate gully on easy class 3 terrain. I crossed a rib and wound up on the scree field just below the summit.

Another 10 minutes of rock hopping put me at the highpoint, the Palisade Glacier sweeping to the southeast. Michelle and I had to agree it was one of the finest views in the Sierra. To the north was the Mount Humphrey Basin. The Evolution Group and flat top of Mount Darwin were to the northwest. To the west was Mount Goddard, Leconte Canyon and Devils Crag. The entirety of the Palisades was laid out directly south, giving a view from Thunderbolt to Sill Peak.

I have a goal someday to climb Thunderbolt, North Palisade, Starlight, Polemonium Peaks. They are the last four 14ers in California I have not climbed. Three of them require rope and rock climbing skills.

On the descent down, I stuck with the wider gully on the northwest slopes. I found small pockets of scree to plunge step. The descent was mostly on fairly solid rock, similar to my ascent line.

I loved every minute of climbing this peak with the great rewards at the summit. Win win.

Next destination for the day, Jigsaw Pass. It was a little project to be reckoned. That is an understatement. It wasn’t really the climb, but the approach and actually locating a safe and correct way up.

The first obstacle, crossing a huge moraine to access the pass. It took longer than expected with slow and tedious travel through boulders. Jigsaw Pass from the west is difficult to locate. We had descriptions, maps and a compass bearing, but the visual of exactly where to safely head up was unclear. Michelle and I located what we thought should go and it worked. A fun class 3 climb that zig zagged up a couple of chutes.

The east side of Jigsaw is gentle with little talus. Luckily, a couple miles down we found water and a lovely flat area with views just as daylight wained.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE DAY:
💫Morning coffee from my tent
💫View of Palisade Range and Palisade Glacier from top of Mount Agassiz, pretty crazy good
💫Finding the correct route up Jigsaw Pass
💫The fun class 3 climb up Jigsaw Pass
💫Beautiful sunset light at the end of a challenging day

Day 3

1st tarn below Jigsaw Pass > Fifth Lake > Seventh Lake > Cloudripper Peak > Vagabond Peak > Seventh Lake
4.67 miles
2,858′ elevation gain

With a name like Cloudripper, who wouldn’t want to sit atop that peak. Not only is it the highest peak of the Inconsolable Range, but it is one of California’s fabled 13ers. It did not disappoint and we combined it easily with fellow 13er Vagabond Peak.

My day didn’t start out so great. I picked up my pack after a little down climb. I ended up stupidly hitting an overhanging rock and split my head open. Michelle quickly patched me up with steri-strips and we went on with our day.

After making our way from Fifth Lake to Seventh Lake, we stored gear at Seventh Lake. The first objective 600 feet up was the saddle. Climb up was not fun. Climbing got serious, loose, AND steep. There are use trails, but both Michelle wove in and out of them finding them more difficult than staying on larger talus on the right side than staying down the center.

Best part…eating lunch at the top. The view southeast into the Big Pine Creek basin was superb. We could see many of the lakes shining blue down below us. To the north, directly below us, was Thunder and Lightning Lake, which had that glacial turquoise color.

The rest of the climb up to the summit of Cloudripper was quite fun on some talus and rock ledges. The climb along the ridge started out steep and rocky.  Cairns marked the path. Scuffed marks in the soil showed where others had hiked before. The route-finding wasn’t too tough. It was the occasional patch of steep loose scree and the deadly drop-offs below us that were scary. 

There were large patches of melting snow on the north slope of the mountain. I loved hiking along this ridge. It was a lot of fun. There are a couple of class 3 moves to reach the top of the summit block. I think the summit photo we took is one of the best I have taken on a self-timer. It is so cool to see Mount Agassiz as our backdrop.

We descended quickly from the Cloudripper’s ridgeline. Then we reached the open, flat area that divides Cloudripper and Vagabond Peak. So open, easy, and quick. By choice I headed up a line on Vagabond that had lots of little class 3 moves. The handholds on Vagabond’s rocks are formed like jugs at an inside climbing gym. Very unique. There are lots of use trails on this peak. Fun and quick.

Our route back to Seventh Lake was the same as our ascent. The steep loose descent off the saddle required focus and concentration. I used the main route in the middle and plunge stepped as much as possible.

Made it back to camp at Seventh Lake just as the sun set on the horizon. A few glitches, but one fine day.

LOWS & HIGHS OF THE DAY:
👎Felt clumsy in the morning, like my legs were not obeying what my head was directing
👎Hit my upper forehead on a rock that resulted in an open gash
🌟Michelle, with her mad nursing skills, steri-stripped the cut together
👎Hiking up steep loose talus on the approach saddle to Cloudripper
🌟Getting to the summit of Cloudripper, views? AMAAAAAZING!
🌟Fun class 3 climb up Vagabond Peak. Lots of great handholds.
🌟Beautiful sunset light on Seventh Lake
👎Headache at the end of the day. I had trouble with basic tasks.

Day 4

Seventh Lake > Big Pine Creek Trailhead
7.85 miles
602′ elevation gain

Just a walk in the park. A colorful one I might add. Our final day trekking along the North Fork Big Pine Creek to Big Pine Creek Trailhead was spent walking downhill. We walked entirely on the trail. The vibrant color of sky, leaves and water was a sensory overload in a most fantastic way.

As we headed out on trail our hearts were full of joy and fulfillment. I just took everything in and smiled. We did the hard stuff and we knew it.

HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE DAY:
🌟The WHOLE day was a highlight
🌟Sitting down with Michelle and deciding to head home and get my head taken care of properly
🌟The colors, the colors, the colors
🌟Just casually jaunting down the trail
🌟Quick dips in glacier water
🌟Cheers to a great trip that the route actually went and to one great climbing partner
🌟Celebrating with coffee, chia pudding, and a turkey sandwich at Looney Beans in Bishop

Favorite Gear from the Hike

• Shorts: On cross country routes I am a huge advocate of wearing pants for protection, but lately I have been carrying a lightweight pair of shorts for approach trails or when it is warm. I like these because of their simplicity and longer length. The shorts run big so size down. I wear an x-small.

•  Long Sleeved Shirt: I am a big fan of hooded long sleeved sun shirts in the middle of summer. But on shoulder season trips, when there might be mosquitoes, or when terrain is predicted to be rough on clothing, I have relied on this shirt over and over again. I own multiple colors. The shirt runs large so order a size down. I wear an x-small.

My Thoughts

This is the kind of trip that feels long. It feels like one has been in the mountains at least a couple of weeks. But in reality a mere few days. Creating this type of backpack (route) is my very favorite. In this route, you do not count the miles. Instead, you count the day in passes, creeks, peaks, basins, valleys, and talus fields. It fills my mind and soul with mountains. Lots of them.

The online program CalTopo is invaluable. My library of out of print older guidebooks has also been essential. Together, they have contributed to more successful trips than I can count. This summer especially. I am not quite ready for backpack season to end. I still have a couple trips I would like to fit in. However, fall seems to have hit hard and swift across the western states.

In the summer of 2024, I managed to climb 29 new peaks. I spent 50 nights sleeping on the ground while backpacking. I am already planning and dreaming of next year’s climbs, backpacks and just maybe a whole new sport in the mountains. Who knows?

Experiences, questions or thoughts? Please share in the comments below!