“Is there a person who has climbed one mountaintop and not needed to try another? ~Paul Grunchow Featured in “Sole and Inspiration” by Hamburger Helper
Route Overview
Mount Tom, elevation 13,658′ is a visually striking, hulk of a mountain that rises over 8,000′ above the town of Bishop, CA directly out of Owens Valley. Mount Tom is on the Sierra Sampler List which features 100 peaks relatively easy to get to, are fun to climb and/or hold other qualities, and are drawn from the main areas of the Sierra range. I have been working on climbing the peaks on this list.
For years I have imagined what it would be like to stand on top of Mount Tom.
However it does have a reputation for:- A rough & rocky dirt access road to the trailhead (one of the worst roads in the Eastern Sierra)
- Plenty of loose, pointy, volcanic talus cross country with at least 6,000′ of elevation gain
- All routes are not technically difficult, mostly class 2-3, but they are all strenuous and long
- Spectacular views from the top
Expecting mostly Type 2 fun, Dan, Scott (a friend from Tehachapi) and I enjoyed a successful backpack into Upper Horton Lake and day-hike climb to the top of Mount Tom. Oh and at the top…ALL the views of the surrounding Sierra peaks exceeded our expectations.
Route Details
TRIP DATE June 30-July 1, 2024 DISTANCE 16.07 miles ELEVATION GAIN 5,654 feet vertical gain TRAILHEAD Starts and ends at Horton Lakes Trailhead DIFFICULTY Unmaintained trail, old mining roads, strenuous cross country, class 2-3 scrambling NAVIGATION Map and compass skills required, GPS of route BEST TIME TO HIKE Summer and Fall WATER Horton Creek and Horton Lakes only PERMITS recreation.gov online reservations CELL SERVICE NoneTrip Video
Guidebook, Maps, and GPS
- Secor’s The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, Trails route description for Mount Tom
- Map set created on Cal Topo, then printed on 11 X 17 paper (highly recommended) – I use Fed Ex online printing service.
- GPS track I created on Cal Topo before the trip.
- Click “Open in “CalTopo” in upper left hand corner of map to view and download GPX.
3D Satellite View of Route
Tips & Options
- If you don’t have access to a high clearance vehicle with 4-wheel drive, hike the 1.5 miles on dirt road up to the trailhead. It is probably faster.
- There are also camping options at the east end of Upper Horton Lake.
- Not interested in climbing Mount Tom? Upper Horton is an excellent destination that features a beautiful lake basin with views in every direction.
- There are no water sources after Upper Horton Lake. Grab enough water from Upper Horton Lake for the climb up and back.
- Leave early in the morning or later in the day from Horton Lakes Trailhead. In the summer, it can be very hot in the middle of the day.
- Take a side trip and visit the old Tungsten Mine
- Combine this trip with a climb of Basin Mountain
- Know and use the 7 Leave No Trace Principles
Recommended Gear
- Trekking Poles – Stronger hiking poles for rough terrain. I have had good luck with the Fizan Compact 3 Trekking Poles. The poles are relatively inexpensive, very lightweight, and I have yet to break a pole.
- Shoes – I love the approach shoe, La Sportiva TX3 . They have amazing GRIP, are supportive, breath well, lighter weight., and are wide enough for trail hiking.
- Helmet – Lightweight, protective, breaths well, and comfortable. I use the Black Diamond Vapor.
- Gloves – I like the Gorilla Gloves: cheap, protective and VERY lightweight.
- Pants – Lightweight, breathable, comfortable pant for protection from rock, brush etc. I wear the Prana Halle Pant.
- Satellite Messenger – I carry a Garmin inReach Mini 2 and highly recommend it.
- Backpacking Kit – It is important to get your backpacking kit as light as possible for safety, comfort, and your health. Here is my current lightweight gear list.
Route Description
Evening 1 – Horton Lakes Trailhead > Upper Horton Lake 4.57 miles – 2,059′ elevation gain
Getting to the trailhead is not very long in distance but allow a lot of time. The dirt road cutting through the Buttermilks is very doable, it is after you leave the main dirt road at the Horton Lakes Trailhead cutoff. A high clearance vehicle with 4 wheel drive is recommended. With a good vehicle the slow crawling speed is very startling. An option is to hike the road up to the trailhead. With temps predicted to be in the 100’s in Bishop, Dan and I opted to hike into Upper Horton Lake in the evening. Scott had decided to hike in earlier. The plan was to meet him at the lake. The start of the trail switch backs up an old unmaintained mining road with views of Basin Mountain, a slightly shorter summit south of Mount Tom. After climbing a little under 1,000′, the trail enters the beautiful Horton Creek Drainage. Four Gables towers at the head of the canyon with Mount Tom to the northwest. We loved the cool evening air without the beating sun, evening lighting, and views in every direction. Scott met us at the intersection where the mining road switchbacks upward and the route down to Upper Horton Lake. He had set up the perfect camp and we all decided to get an early start (5:30 am) for tomorrow’s objective, Mount Tom.
Mount Tom Summit Day – Upper Horton Lake > Summit Mount Tom > Upper Horton Lake > 7.46 miles – 3,595′ elevation gain
I LOVE early starts. There are so many advantages: early morning light and cool air, witnessing first hand yet another sunrise, the idea of enjoying the hike because you have padded extra time, and maybe even stopping for second breakfast and coffee. Our day started in earnest with a steep series of switchbacks leading up to the saddle between Mount Tom and Gable Lakes Peak. At the saddle, we had a fun photo shoot with Scott. The summit of Mount Tom was now clearly in view and the slopes leading up. A wide mining road left the saddle and we followed it until we encountered an impassable snowfield covering the old mining road, most likely left from previous high snow years. The route usually continues to end of the road at the old Tungsten Mine and then starts the climb up the slope on a use trail. At that point we took a snack break, put on our helmets and gloves, and accessed the situation. We decided to start the steep ascent before the recommended gully route. This was super fortunate because it forced us to take the main southwest ridge up. Most of the rocks did move, but we found it was a fun climb. A few hundred feet below the summit we followed an easy class 3 chute up to the summit. Even with the smoke from a Fresno fire it one of the best views. From the top I could see the entire Palisades, Mount Williamson, Mount Whitney and to the north Mount Humphreys, Red Slate Mountain, and Ritter and Banner in the distance. Across the valley we could see Bishop and the White Mountains. After gawking at ALL THE VIEWS, I fired up our stove, made some coffee, cooked a hot lunch and lounged. Our route up went well, so we thought it wise to descend the same way. We picked our way down heading for any patches of green vegetation where rocks moved less. It was a great strategy. After reaching the mining road once again, we had fun reliving the experience with a snack break. We highly recommend the route. It was a long slog down and it was hot. After pulling into camp, Dan and I took a quick dip in the lake, made dinner, and called it a night.
Morning – Upper Horton Lake > Horton Lakes Trailhead 4.57 miles – 1991′ elevation loss
Early morning we headed down the trail with smiles and full hearts now knowing first hand the feeling of being on the summit of Mount Tom. We all agreed to meet at Looney Bean Coffee Shop in Bishop to celebrate over lunch and coffee. Ya, this trip had some moments of Type 2 fun, but it was so worth it.
That was some tough and difficult work. But it still put smiles on faces!
Definitely a peak I had out off for years because of all the stories I had read on loose rock. It actually was a cool climb.
I have become empowered following you on Instagram and here. Thank you for your posts! They give me ideas for solos and other trips with friends. I hurt myself last summer on an organized trip doing backcountry in Yosemite and was flown out of JMT 2 weeks later. Unfortunately it required knee surgery for torn meniscus, so I’m staying to trails and maybe flatter X-co starting in the southern Sierra this summer and fall. However, next summer…look out!
YOU GO GIRL! Thank you for sharing Sally. I love your attitude. Injuries can really be a set back, but in my experience making future goals like backpacking trips is key to getting better. Keeps the focus on making healthy choices and doing those PT exercises. Wishing you a complete recovery and healing. Look out…is RIGHT.
Closed by Chrome browser and clicked on the “Continue Reading” link a 2nd time and was connected to the Blog Post for Climbing Mount Tom.
Man, growing pains! I am determined to get everything working right. Thank you so much for the feedback Jeff. You rock.
When I click on the link to “Continue Reading” I get connected to your About page but not to the Mount Tom blog post. I do see a picture in the email showing you climbing over small boulders.
Glad this got resolved! 🙂