Updated: 9-28-2021

Don’t call it a dream. Call it a Plan.
~Adventure in you

Route Summary

The Yosemite High Route is a newer high route published by Andrew Skurka that is divided into 2 main sections, the northern and southern core routes. The eloquent backpack travels mostly off trail through the beautiful and remote Yosemite High Country. The main route or core route is approximately 94 miles long, starting from Grace Meadow, just southwest of Dorothy Lake near the northern Yosemite Park boundary to the southern terminus, Quartzite Peak, north of Yosemite Valley. Of these 94 miles, 70% are cross country, and the route gains and loses a total gain and loss of 59,000′ of elevation. The route traverses several sub-ranges of the Sierra Nevada, crosses 15 passes, skirts by each of the 10 highest peaks in the park, and visits the park’s only two glaciers. Also, it traverses the headwaters of two of California’s major rivers and 25 named creeks.

The guidebook Andrew created features beautiful maps, detailed data books, and written route descriptions. Its is designed with many options for accessing the route, hiking in different directions, hiking it in sections, or as a thru-hike. As with all of Andrew’s guidebooks, they are detailed but leave room for adventure. It really is a “choose your own adventure”. Both termini lie deep in the park’s wilderness. Skurka provides several approach options from each end, adding between 25 and 80 miles. The route can be done as a point-to-point or as a figure-8 out of Tuolumne Meadows.

The Hike

In August 2019, I hiked the Northern section with my good hiking friend, Sally and the Southern section solo, in September 2019. This trip report is PART 1 of 2, the Northern section and is primarily a photo essay of the route with some important TIPS & OPTIONS at the end of this post. 

For our hike, we accessed the northern terminus via Sonora Pass leaving a car at both Sonora Pass and Tuolumne Meadows. The northern core combined with the added access route miles (Sonora Pass to Grace Meadow) is 69.6 miles, 34.9 miles on trail, 34.7 miles cross country, 6 days, 9 passes, and 19,515 feet of vertical gain. 2019 was a very high snow year with lingering snowfields into late September. September that year was filled with abundant wildflowers, snowfields, cornices over passes, flowing water, green open meadows, very few mosquitoes, cold nights & warm days, blue skies, remote lakes, hiking on granite slabs, alpine tundra, and lots and lots of climbing up and over rock.

This challenging, demanding, and very rewarding route is for hikers with good navigation skills, that are comfortable on class 2 and 3 rock scrambles, traveling off-trail and on some talus fields. Be prepared for fun navigation, some cursing, and many laughs.

Video Highlights

Yosemite High Route Northern Section Details

TRIP DATE  August 17-22, 2019
LENGTH 69.6 miles (34.9 miles on trail, 34.7 miles cross country)
ELEVATION GAIN 19,515 feet vertical gain
TRAILHEAD This trip started from Sonora Pass via the Pacific Crest Trail to access Yosemite High Route Northern Terminus at Grace Meadow
DIFFICULTY Strenuous with some class 3 climbing
NAVIGATION Map and Compass required, GPS, advanced
BEST TIME TO HIKE Summer, early fall
WATER Abundant natural sources
PERMITS Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Center Walk-in or online 
CELL SERVICE None

Guidebook, Maps  & GPS

• Andrew Skurka Guidebook – Purchase and download online
• Map set printed on 11 X 17 paper from Andrew’s guide – I use Fed Ex online printing service.
• Yosemite National Park (National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map)
• GPS track I created on Cal Topo (not actual route).

Click “Open in “CalTopo” in upper right hand corner of map to view and download GPX.

Day 1 – PCT Sonora Pass to Grizzly Trail Junction

August 16
8.7 miles crossing Sonora Pass

The first day hiking started in the afternoon after driving and shuttling cars leaving one car at Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Center and the other car at Sonora Pass.

The trail ascended through abundant wildflowers, butterflies, red rock, and expansive views. After descending Sonora Pass, we quickly found a nice sheltered camp before it was completely dark. Long day.

Photos of Day 1:
Photo Mosaics: To view full size photos and captions, click on a photo and use arrows to navigate through photos.

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DAY 2 – PCT Grizzly Trail Junction to Top of Keyes Pass

August 17
19 miles crossing Dorothy and Keyes Peak Passes

The Pacific Crest Trail rolls up and down hills, with a few creek fords, up Dorothy Pass, and down to Grace Meadow the northern terminus of the Yosemite High Route. This approach to Grace Meadow would take about 1 full day of trail hiking and was very pleasant.

The route departs the PCT following high above an unnamed stream through dense forest. After climbing about 1,500 feet, the views open up to Keyes Pass. A large snow cornice covered the pass and looked intimidating at first. We were able to navigate up some snow and rocks on the right side of the pass. There was lovely camping on the south side of Keyes with beautiful views.

Photos of Day 2:

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DAY 3 – Keyes Pass to Below Shelf Pass

August 18
8.5 miles crossing Tower Peak and Shelf Passes

Morning views of Tilden Lake while descending Keyes Pass through forest was dreamy. At the bottom of the canyon the route curves left then up 1,300′ to Tower Peak Pass. At this point in the trip, we realized it is very important to continue checking our maps and the locations of Skurka’s red waypoint dots on the map.

Stubblefield Canyon is open and beautiful, a perfect place to take a long break because the climb out of the canyon is very, very steep. The reward is great with Lake 9774 at the top.

Below the next objective, Shelf Pass is a flat open valley. We chose to stay high above the valley traversing to the pass, but I think that the easier assess would be from the valley. We ended up searching for a safe route up. After negotiating class 3 rock and snow we finally found the main route.

The rock ledges on the other side of the pass made for a nice camp with a fine view.

Photos from Day 3:

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DAY 4 – Below Shelf Pass to Piute Creek below Burro Pass Trail

August 19
12.7 miles crossing Willow and Rock Island Lake Passes

After descending into wooded Thompson Canyon and climbing up Willow Pass we took a break to enjoy the morning light on the  broad, flat pass. It felt and looked like a fairyland.

We descended into Kerrick Meadow, hit a trail for a few miles, then up the chute to Rock Island Lake Pass. The lake is iconic and would be a great place to camp to take it all in.

After a steep descent into Crazy Mule Gulch and a climb up to a saddle, the descent into Piute Canyon was tricky. We ended up hiking through brush, getting cliffed out, and going down sketchy steep slabs. Looking back up to our route from the bottom of Piute Canyon we thought that an easier and safer route might be on the far left (going down) not near the main creek. Photo reference below.

We traveled high above the left side of the creek up the canyon. It was much easier than the right side of the creek, plus there was an intermittent use trail.

Navigating across The Slide, a huge rockslide in the canyon, is quick by staying right, high above the boulders on a use trail.

Camp tonight is nestled in rock above a meadow and the meandering stream.

Photos from Day 4:

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DAY 5 – The Slide in Slide Canyon to Soldier Lake

August 20
8.9 miles crossing Burro, Matterhorn, and Stanton Passes

Photos from Day 5:

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Day 6 – Soldier Lake to Ridge before Young Lakes

August 21
9.9 miles crossing Don’t Be a Smart Pass

The big objective of this day is Don’t Be a Smart Pass, which is know as holding snow late into the season.

After descending in Virginia Canyon and crossing Return Creek, it was helpful to check our maps often while going through thick forest climbing to Upper McCabe Lake. From Upper McCabe Lake Don’t Be a Smart Pass is not visible at first. After following the lake’s rocky shore, the snow chute is really cool. The snow was pretty firm when we were there, so we opted to climb the pass on in rock chute to the right, not straight up the main snowfield.

From the top, man oh man the views were awesome of Roosevelt Lake, Mount Conness, the Cathedral Range, Half Dome, and Cloud’s Rest.

Camp tonight is above Conness Creek.

Photos from Day 6:

DAY 7 – Ridge before Young Lakes to Tuolumne Meadows

August 22
7.9 miles

The route to Young Lakes is through forest. It is super helpful in this section to use map and compass often for route finding. It is trail the whole way to Tuolumne Meadows (end of the Northern Section) after arriving at stunning Young Lakes.

At the end of this first half of the Yosemite High Route,  I was full of gratitude and joy for our safety and for a body that did not fail me on yet another arduous route in the Sierras. A celebration for sure!

Photos from Day 7:

Tips and Options

After hiking this route in 2019, I have hiked several large sections again in 2020. The following are my opinions for making a trip safer and more enjoyable.

Northern or Southern Core Route? 

• This is the number #1 question I have received after completing both sections. Which is easier? Northern or Southern? It depends. If you are comfortable on a bit of Stanton Pass’s, class 3 rock, the northern section has more meadows and less talus fields than the southern. The southern section is more a “high route” feel that is remote, wild, scenic, difficult, and unforgiving.

Navigation

• It is helpful to navigate to each of Skurka’s waypoints on his map set. There is some distance between each point, which can be navigated differently by each hikers style and snow/water levels.
• Check the location of landmarks with map and compass before progressing, especially passes, canyons, and lakes. Backtracking because you discover you have climbed the wrong pass is not fun.
• Print your maps 11 X 17 (not 8 1/2 X 11) as recommended, you will thank me.
• Print the detailed guidebook double sided. I also download the PDFs of the data sheets and guidebook on Google Drive as a back up.
• If you do not own a good compass, this is a great time to purchase one. I use the Suunto M-3g Global Pro Compass  and love it. Get one with a declination adjustment. Here is a course on navigation with information and instructional videos. Also, it is a great refresher for the experienced hiker.

Route

• Matterhorn Pass – As an option to descending (southbound) or ascending (northbound) the steep loose chute on the east side of the pass, you might consider the class 2 route on rock slabs north of the pass.
• Stanton Pass – This pass has a class 3 section on the west side of the pass that often is scary for hikers. I have been on this pass several times and each time have taken a bit of a different route. I recommend ascending on the right side of the traditional route. The rock has good hand holds and eliminates the hikers outward lean on the main route.
• Don’t Be a Smart Pass – Early season this pass is covered in snow on the north side. It can be ascended on the snow if the snow is soft enough to kick steps or with an ice axe. There is also a good route on rock to the right of the main chute.

Gear

• Yosemite National Park requires a bear canister in the entire park.
• Get your backpack as light as possible. Off-trail travel is very difficult and dangerous with a heavy pack. Examine carefully each item in your pack if you really need it, looking for items to pack that serve dual or even triple uses, then leave some items behind. For example, on hard routes or long hikes, I leave my pillow, camp shoes, any extra clothing, camera, extra socks, beanie, footprint for tent, extra toiletries, and extra food behind. I bring my lightest tent, sleeping bag, and backpack. Need some ideas? Here is the link to my lightweight gear list.

Photo | Video

• View all photos from the trip on Flickr
• View video on You Tube

Links to other High Routes

• Yosemite High Route – Southern Core Route
• Southern Sierra High Route
• Lowest to Highest: Badwater to Mount Whitney
• Sierra High Route 
• Wind River High Route

If you hike this route, tag @christyrosander on Instagram and use the hashtag #ladyonarock so I can take a look!

Happy Adventuring!

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